Carrier code 31

Carrier code 31 DEFAULT
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    Carrier Furnace Throwing 31 code..

    Kind of lost. Had a customer call me and say furnace is blinking led light 3 flashes and 1 flash come to find out its pressure draft safeguard code, Well I removed the Exhaust and checked it and theres no obstruction and I removed my cold air intake and found a rubber piece that was blocking which was making an obstruction and then I put it back on same error, I cut the pvc in acouple places since it gos through the attic and put couplings in and found nothing. So i also cleaned out the drains and still nothing, Next I went on to the pressure switch and check that It is opening when ever I take the hose off the Pressure switch that gos to the gas valve and the burner assembly it will start right up. So i took the hoses off and cleaned them all out no obstruction, I have no obstructions anywhere and I checked all drains and exahaust and air intake. As soon as I put the hose back on the pressure. it turns off the flame and goes back to that code. I am thinking its the pressure switch which the vent side is not working correctly. When the hose is removed unit works perfect and I have no obstructions.
    What do you think?
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    You need to hook up a magnehelic to see how many inches of water column you are drawing. It's normally never the pressure switch unless it's the old metal kind.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BShackView Post
    I agree with "Mattio". It would be good to know what pressure the switch is actually seeing, compared to what it is rated at.

    Just one other tip - always post the model number of the unit you are working on. Sometimes there are known problems for specific models.
    Instead of learning the tricks of the trade, learn the trade.
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    Thread Starter
    It is the old metal type of pressure switch and opps just went and looked in my van for the model # but must of trashed the piece of paper i wrote it down on
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattioView Post
    You need to hook up a magnehelic to see how many inches of water column you are drawing. It's normally never the pressure switch unless it's the old metal kind.
    BS. If it plastic and says "Made in Costa Rica" it could very well be the pressure switch. Just had another one this afternoon. Of course Goodman still uses them.

    Sent from my SM-NW8 using Tapatalk
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    Yeah I get it, it happens but the amount of no heat calls I run that blink pressure switch error that turn out to be venting issues etc and not the pressure switch far outweigh the few when it is the switch itself. Plus checking the switch with magnehelic takes 2 minutes
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    Replaced more than a few plastic ones on Tranes last winter.
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    Pressure switches are easy to troubleshoot with even a cheapo multimeter. If it is normally open but reads closed it's stuck. If it's normally closed but reads openit's stuck. The switch is there to make sure there is no blockage in the vent as a safety and if you say the vent is clear the switch is wrong. Replace and move on. Pretty basic call.
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    Need a dual port manometer sounds like venting is plugged need confirm vacuum.
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    Could be a heat exchanger issue. You have to get a manometer on it to know. Make sure you clear out the port on the burner box that the hose connects to.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SootyView Post
    Pressure switches are easy to troubleshoot with even a cheapo multimeter. If it is normally open but reads closed it's stuck. If it's normally closed but reads openit's stuck. The switch is there to make sure there is no blockage in the vent as a safety and if you say the vent is clear the switch is wrong. Replace and move on. Pretty basic call.
    And without confirming actual vacuum, you MAY be changing a perfectly good part.
    Then you will look a bit like a hack.
    Now you break out the manometer and multimeter, like you should have done before, and determine the ACTUAL problem.
    The Food Stamp Program, administered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is proud to be distributing the greatest amount of free meals and stamps EVER.
    Meanwhile, the National Park Service, administered by the U.S. Department of the Interior, asks us to "Please Do Not Feed the Animals". Their stated reason for this policy " the animals become dependent on handouts and will not learn to take care of themselves."
    from an excerpt by Paul Jacob in Sun City, AZ
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    Carrier 90% probably has rotted out heat exchangers.
    UA Proud

    "Phfft! Facts. You can use them to prove anything." Homer Simpson
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    plugged secondaries cause the pressure switches ( differential ) to close at a lower inducer rpm than normal. bad secondaries dont cause pressure switches to not make. they make too soon. ecm inducer models throw a "out of rpm" fault code. psc inducer models just make ungodly amount of CO
    my boss thinks its possible to repeal the laws of physics
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Fault Code 31

HIGH-PRESSURE SWITCH FAULT&#x;This fault can occur under the scenarios shown below, keep in mind that

whenever furnace control board shuts unit down, gas shuts off immediately, inducer continues running for 15

sec, and if blower is running, it remains running at low-heat speed or reduces to low-heat speed for selected

off delay.

&#x; CALL FOR HEAT&#x;If high-pressure switch HPS is made when a call for heat is initiated, furnace control board flashes Fault Code 31 until

switch opens, then cycle begins.

&#x; LOW HEAT

1. PREPURGE AND FIRST 45 SEC AFTER IGNITION&#x;If high-pressure switch HPS makes during prepurge or just after ignition, furnace

control board continues operating until burners are lit and inducer RPM is within 10% of calculated low-fire RPM. If high-pressure switch

HPS remains made, furnace control board starts flashing Fault Code 31, shuts unit down, waits 2 minutes, stops flashing Fault Code 31,

and restarts heating cycle.

2. STEADY-STATE&#x;If high-pressure switch HPS makes during low heat, furnace control board starts flashing Fault Code 31, shuts unit

down, waits 2 minutes, stops flashing Fault Code 31, and restarts heating cycle.

&#x; HIGH HEAT

1. PREPURGE&#x;If high-pressure switch HPS does not make within 45 sec after low-pressure switch LPS makes, furnace control board starts

flashing Fault Code 31, shuts unit down, waits 2 minutes, stops flashing Fault Code 31, and restarts heating cycle.

If high-pressure switch HPS opens before ignition, furnace control board starts flashing Fault Code 31 and ramps inducer RPM up until

high-pressure switch HPS remakes. When high-pressure switch HPS remakes, furnace control board stops flashing Fault Code 31 and

continues heating cycle. If high-pressure switch HPS does not remake within 45 sec after opening, furnace control board continues flashing

Fault Code 31, shuts unit down, waits 2 minutes, stops flashing Fault Code 31, and restarts heating cycle.

2. FIRST MINUTE AFTER IGNITION&#x;If high-pressure switch HPS opens during first minute after ignition, furnace control board starts

flashing Fault Code 31, shuts unit down, waits 2 minutes, stops flashing Fault Code 31, and restarts heating cycle.

3. STEADY-STATE&#x;If high-pressure switch HPS opens during high heat, furnace control board starts flashing Fault Code 31 and ramps

inducer RPM up until high-pressure switch HPS remakes. When high-pressure switch HPS remakes, furnace control board stops flashing

Fault Code 31 and continues heating cycle. If high-pressure switch HPS does not remake within 45 sec after opening, furnace control board

continues flashing Fault Code 31, shuts unit down, waits 2 minutes, stops flashing Fault Code 31, and restarts heating cycle.

4. HIGH FIRE TO LOW FIRE TRANSITION&#x;When using a 2-stage thermostat and W2 is de-energized, high-pressure switch HPS must

open within 45 sec. If high-pressure switch HPS does not open within 45 sec after W2 was de-energized, furnace control board starts

flashing Fault Code 31, shuts unit down, waits 2 minutes, stops flashing Fault Code 31, and restarts heating cycle.

STEP

1.

Turn power off, remove blower access panel, and disconnect R thermostat lead.

2.

Turn power on and depress door switch. Use a piece of tape to hold switch closed.

3.

Jumper R and W/W1 thermostat terminals on furnace control board.

4.

Observe operation of furnace through 1 heating cycle.

5.

Does fault occur again?

6.

Does a different fault occur?

7.

Go to page number indicated in Index for fault code flashed.

8.

Go to page number indicated in Index for CLEANUP AND START-UP INSTRUCTIONS.

9.

Does fault occur within 5 sec after W/W1 is energized?

Do you have 24v between the N.O. (Normally Open) contact on high-pressure switch HPS and Com

on furnace control board?

Replace furnace control board.

Is high-pressure switch HPS wired correctly?

Rewire high-pressure switch HPS per wiring diagram.

Replace pressure switch assembly.

Do you have 24v between connector terminal PL and Com on furnace control board?

The main harness is miswired.

Fix problem.

Does fault occur during blower on delay period?

Turn power off and disconnect jumper wire across R and W/W1 thermostat terminals.

Turn power on and wait several sec, then jumper R, W/W1, and W2 thermostat terminals on fur-

nace control board.

Does Fault Code 14 start flashing when high-pressure switch HPS makes?

The BLUE and GREEN wires to gas valve GV are reversed.

Does fault occur during low fire after blower turns on?

Turn power off and disconnect jumper wire across R and W/W1 thermostat terminals.

ACTION

21

YES

NO

GO TO

&#x;

&#x;

2

&#x;

&#x;

3

&#x;

&#x;

4

&#x;

&#x;

5

9

6

&#x;

7

8

&#x;

&#x;

&#x;

INDEX

&#x;

&#x;

INDEX

10

18

&#x;

12

15

&#x;

&#x;

&#x;

8

14

13

&#x;

&#x;

&#x;

8

&#x;

&#x;

8

16

11

&#x;

&#x;

&#x;

17

&#x;

&#x;

8

19

23

&#x;

&#x;

20

&#x;

&#x;

21

22

14

&#x;

&#x;

&#x;

17

24

29

&#x;

&#x;

&#x;

25

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Carrier error code but everything checks out

Thanks for the responses

There is no pvc intake for this furnace. The upper door is vented like all old gas furnaces, and it draws air from the room (basement).

I did check the nipple for blockage, and blew back through the vacuum hose. It was open. I will retest the pressure switch operation tomorrow with the test that should have shown that there is no blockage or weak motor, and that the pressure switch is working. Connecting my meter to the pressure switch terminals with the furnace running the inducer, proved that the switch was closing correctly which proved that there is enough suction to operate the switch. When I retest it, I'll leave the meter on and let the inducer run longer to make sure there is no break in continuity during a longer run. I suppose it is possible that the diaphragm in the switch could throw the switch initially, and then perhaps a small hole could let the switch open again. That is a long shot though because I did watch the meter the first time for about 30 seconds. This pressure switch requires only a tiny amount of suction to close. I would imagine it is very unlikely that the contacts inside the switch ever corrode inside a sealed area like that, unless the diaphragm does have a small leak.

Error code 31 is listed on the error codes on the door, along with the likely causes. I've not really been guessing just eliminating each possibility. The last time I had this code, the chimney cap had come off and a bird carcass was inside the furnace. I wish it were that simple this time. I replaced some of the chimney pipe last year when I found a hole rusted through, and I cleaned the whole venting system out then. There was almost no debris this time, except a couple of dead beetles which were not near anything that could be blocked.

I've called repair guys only twice in the last 38 years. lol Once was almost that long ago for a broken refrigerator, and the last time was several years ago for this furnace. A baffle had cracked right next to the limit switch, and I didn't see it. The baffles were under warranty, but labor wasn't, so I changed all of them myself. Hopefully there wont be a third time.

 

Upvote

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What Do Carrier Furnace Yellow Light Codes Mean? Your Ultimate Guide to Error Codes

When the light on your Carrier furnace is yellow and flashing it’s like your furnace is speaking a different language. You know it’s communicating a problem but how do you determine what do Carrier furnace yellow light codes mean? We’ll review some common meanings such as a limit switch lockout or a flipped flame roll out switch to help break the code.

Common Answers to What Do Carrier Furnace Yellow Light Codes Mean

When your Carrier furnace suffers a malfunction it uses two digit number codes to alert you. The first digit is the number of flashes by the yellow light while the second digit is the number of green light flashes. The common yellow light codes below can make for faster troubleshooting when asking, “What do Carrier furnace yellow light codes mean?”

Yellow Light

What it means: If you’re wondering, “What does the yellow light on my Carrier furnace mean?” it signifies that the furnace is stuck in high-fire mode. The high-fire mode should only operate for short periods of time to heat a very cold house faster. If the yellow light remains on this could indicate that the furnace is stuck in high fire mode due to a defective gas valve solenoid.

How to fix:  The gas valve solenoid uses an electric signal to open when the thermostat calls for heat, narrowing its opening for low-fire mode and widening for high fire mode. A gas valve solenoid stuck in high fire mode can’t be repaired and needs to be replaced.

Reset

What it means: A Carrier furnace calling for a reset can have multiple causes. The most common reason is Code 33, indicating that the flame roll out switch has been flipped. This switch is a safety feature that flips to shut the furnace down and prevent it from overheating. This code is often accompanied by the above yellow light.

How to fix: We recommend consulting your manual for the specific steps involved in resetting the flame roll out switch for your model furnace. If this task is outside your DIY comfort zone we recommend a professional service.

Code 31

What it means: Code 31 typically indicates a problem with the high pressure switch. This switch senses the amount of air pressure inside the furnace and will flip if the pressure is too high. Air pressure issues can occur when the furnace’s condenser coils are dirty or if the high pressure switch is faulty.

How to fix: Turn off power to the furnace. Check both the inner and outer condenser coils for dust and debris, gently cleaning with a soft cloth if needed. If the code still remains after restarting the furnace then the high pressure switch may be faulty and requires replacement.

Code 13

What it means: This code usually signifies a limit switch lockout. This switch is also a safety feature that engages when there’s a malfunction in lighting the furnace burners. If the burners fail to ignite after three attempts the switch flips and cuts off any gas flow to the burner.

How to fix: So how do you fix Error Code 13 on a Carrier furnace? While this switch can flip if an airflow vent is blocked or if the switch is faulty, it can also trip when there is a gas flow problem. As this situation can be dangerous, we recommend a professional service to assess the problem.

Blinking Light

What it means: If you’re wondering what does the blinking light on my Carrier furnace mean there could be several answers. While Codes 31, 33 & 13 are the most common, here are some additional blinking light meanings:

  • Problem A: Low pressure switch fault
  • Problem B: Blower motor malfunctions
  • Problem C: Reversed line voltage polarity

How to fix:

  • Problem A: Clean the condenser coils. If the code remains, the low pressure switch may be faulty and need replacement
  • Problem B: Check the furnace filter, replacing if dirty. If the code remains, the blower motor will need to be professionally assessed for a malfunction.
  • Problem C: this can occur when the furnace is not properly grounded to your electrical panel or when there is a control panel failure. A professional service can assess this problem.

We hope we solved the mystery of what do Carrier furnace yellow light codes mean with our guide to some common codes. If you need help breaking a code or troubleshooting a loud furnace, Dependable Heating and Air can help. Call us any time you need to fix a furnace fast!

Sours: https://www.dependablehvacatlanta.com/blog/carrier-furnace-yellow-light-codes-meaning/

31 carrier code

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  1. ,  PM#1
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    Carrier furnace code 31 Short Cycling - 59SP5AE

    Hi there, I've been noticing my furnace short cycling recently, minutes approximately short cyling sometimes little longer up to 7 minutes. No issues with getting the house up to temperature but I believe it just takes longer due to short cycling. Before I call in a pro, I would like to try the basics. House is 3 years new, just over the parts & labor warranty for the heating.

    Here is what I have done after consulting the manual.

    Yesterday:

    1. Put in brand new filter
    2. Check outside of the house for blockage of vent and air intakes, seems ok.
    3. Removed the hoses connected to the pressure switch, just very carefully poked the holes on the inducer motor assembly where the hoses connect to.

    Quickly did a test, this time it continued to run for 45 minutes and stopped when the temperature reached. I thought I solved it until I saw code 31 again today.

    Today:
    1. Removed condensation trap, it's dirty but not plugged, but I cleaned it up. Primed it after the heating system started
    2. Removed all the hoses connected to the pressure switch again.
    3. Used a shop vac and sucked the hoses and the holes on the inducer motor assembly where the hoses would connect to.
    4. While vacuuming, i did notice droplets of water plugging one of the holes on the inducer motor where the hoses connect to, I think that may have caused the pressure switch error.

    I just did another test, it ran continuously no issues. Will monitor for the rest of the day.

    If the code comes back, any suggestions on what to check next? Thanks so much!

    Name: Furnace.jpg Views: Size: KB
  2. ,  PM#2
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    Copy the title of your post and google it, there is a you tube video google will pop it up could help.
    UA Local 32 retired as of Jan
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by bufordView Post
    Copy the title of your post and google it, there is a you tube video google will pop it up could help.
    Thanks I think I know which one you're referring too, that one involves drilling one of the holes on the inducer assembly. He's got a point, that is the hole where he mentioned water droplets and where I saw water on mine.

    I will call the company that did the installation and see if they can help me find the issue.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sam-guanView Post
    Thanks I think I know which one you're referring too, that one involves drilling one of the holes on the inducer assembly. He's got a point, that is the hole where he mentioned water droplets and where I saw water on mine.

    I will call the company that did the installation and see if they can help me find the issue.
    There could be mfr fixes for this issue and they should be covered by warranty(at least the parts).
    The Food Stamp Program, administered by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, is proud to be distributing the greatest amount of free meals and stamps EVER.
    Meanwhile, the National Park Service, administered by the U.S. Department of the Interior, asks us to "Please Do Not Feed the Animals". Their stated reason for this policy " the animals become dependent on handouts and will not learn to take care of themselves."
    from an excerpt by Paul Jacob in Sun City, AZ
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    Check to see if your furnace is registered with Carrier. That furnace "should have" come with a 10 year parts warranty IF it was registered with Carrier, otherwise I think it is only a 5 year parts warranty.
    Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.
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    Thread Starter
    So my local carrier dealer came 3 times. The first time he made sure nothing was plugged, checked and cleaned the flame sensor. The furnace started to run fine for a little bit, then started short cycling with 31 code again. The second visit, he jumped the thermostat directly and the furnace ran fine for a little and told me my thermostat was bad. This morning, I woke up with no heat, I put the old thermostat back and restarted the furnace. It started to short cycle every 1 minute so it's not the thermostat. The service guy came over again just now and replaced the pressure switch, it seems to run fine now.. will continue to monitor and report back. The part was covered under the 5 year warranty unfortunately the dealer didn't register the unit for me. If the problem persists, he said he would need to replace inducer motor.
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    A simple pressure test will tell if the inducer assembly / switch are good or bad.

    Sounds like a lot of guessing going on!
  8. ,  PM#8
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    I hope he replaced the pressure switch with an OEM instead of using one with a lower setting as a workaround for the problem.
    *********
    https://www.hvaccom/ High efficiency equipment alone does not provide home comfort and efficiency. HVAC is a process for finding the real needs of the house and the occupants. Offer the customer a menu of work to address their problems and give them a probability of success.

    Find contractors with specialized training in combustion analysis, residential system performance, air flow, and duct optimization https://www.myhomecomfort.org/


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    Quote Originally Posted by kdean1View Post
    I hope he replaced the pressure switch with an OEM instead of using one with a lower setting as a workaround for the problem.
    Don't even go there!
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsgView Post
    But the poster needs more anxiety.
    *********
    https://www.hvaccom/ High efficiency equipment alone does not provide home comfort and efficiency. HVAC is a process for finding the real needs of the house and the occupants. Offer the customer a menu of work to address their problems and give them a probability of success.

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    Maybe they could install a Nest for him to eliminate those pesky fault codes. Like that other thread.
    *********
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  12. ,  PM#12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdean1View Post
    Maybe they could install a Nest for him to eliminate those pesky fault codes. Like that other thread.
    That only works with the 3M Pleated for Total Destruction!
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    Why would they need to replace the inducer motor? Did they measure the vacuum while it ran to determine that the pressure switch was bad? I'm at a loss as to how a tstat going bad would ever give the furnace an error code, unless it's a fully communicating system it only tells the furnace turn on or off, it cannot tell it theres a problem, shut down. The installer sounds like they are throwing parts at it, I'm praying for your sake it's the correct parts, they certainly did you zero favors by not registering the equipment for you. Call Carrier and tell them you just found out it wasn't registered and see if they will extend it for you, they may not but it cant hurt. Personally I think that whole register it or 5 year warranty is a scam, ought to be illegal
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    Thread Starter
    I put the Nest back and it’s still working fine so it’s not related to the thermostat.

    His reasoning for replacing the motor was that the motor is not balanced, the end cap at the end of the motor was kind of wobbly as it spins.

    I double confirmed with him about the specifications for the pressure switch he put it. I was surprised that he didn’t use any pressure measuring tool, he was checking continuity on the pressure switch.

    Now you guys are making me nervous about this repair
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    Thread Starter
    This is not good at all, they put in a different pressure switch with lower WC PF rating.. I'm going to contact his company again.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sam-guanView Post
    This is not good at all, they put in a different pressure switch with lower WC PF rating.. I'm going to contact his company again.
    Name: pressureswitch.jpg Views: Size: KB
    Install a lower pressure rating switch and the problem goes away!

    Order some Low Level CO Detectors

    You may need them!
  18. ,  PM#18
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    I just checked on the carrier app, the pressure switch has not been superseded.

    So the number on the old switch is the part number that the new switch needs to be.

    The switch is designed for a 40k btu model from what I have looked up, again it is not made for your model.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Advanced ResponseView Post
    I just checked on the carrier app, the pressure switch has not been superseded.

    So the number on the old switch is the part number that the new switch needs to be.

    The switch is designed for a 40k btu model from what I have looked up, again it is not made for your model.
    thanks! I just contacted him he said it's not a safety concern, this is exactly what he replied in my text message:

    "No, it is not a safety concern. I replaced it because of any issue with the vent motor in case."

    Should i try another company? Is he trying to rule out the vent motor or something?
  20. ,  PM#20
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    I understand replacing it because he believes it was the issue, but it should be what is required by the manufacturer no some random part which is not rated or approved for your model size.

    But unlike him, I like to test the vacuum with a digital manometer teed into the pressure switch. Then also confirm the switch is bad by using a Fieldpiece pressure switch tester.

    It sounds like he is guessing and has no clue about proper service work
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Carrier 59SC5A060 pressure switch fault code 31

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