First, you should always glaze over a satin or a semigloss paint. Note: You don't want to apply glaze to a flat or matte paint finish, as flat paint is porous and it would absorb too much of the color pigment. Satin paint is my favorite as it is low sheen and it is easy to wipe and work the glaze into the crevices and details. My frame was a gilded gold when I found it. I first painted it with cheap primer and then with Rustoleum Spray Paint in Satin Heirloom White. This paint is one of my absolute favorite colors as it is a very clean off white color. I love to use it on furniture! It can be found in both spray paint and also by the quart. It can sometimes be found at hardware stores, but they rarely seem to have it in stock. (The spray can on the right links to Amazon where you can buy a case of 6 spray cans of paint for only $22). If you do a lot of projects, I recommend buying it in quantity as it is cheaper that way! The can below links to the quart which is great for furniture project. I usually roll it on with a sponge roller (I love sponges.. lol).
The picture above is the frame sprayed with heirloom white before I applied the antiquing glaze to it. The above picture is a good shot for showing how clean the off white color is.
Notice on the pictures below that my frame has lots of age cracks and crevices in the old gesso details. I wanted to make sure all of the details and even the age of the item showed... as I find the distressed age so beautiful! That is why I decided to go with the antique glaze on this beauty. It helps to show all the wonderful details...
I had some Valspar (Lowe's) Antiquing Glaze from a prior project so that is what I used. It is a water based product so it is easy to use and easy to clean up. I use a paper plate as a palette (the place to pour some glaze to dip my sponge or brush into). It's cheap, but I mostly use it because it's super easy to clean up (which I love!). I just throw the paper plate away when I'm done. I also often use sponge brushes as they are like .39 cents each so they are disposable too.
Just pour some antiquing glaze onto the plate/palette and sponge away. I also used a fan brush to get the glaze into the smaller details. Any brush would work, I just like my fan brush for some reason.
First i did a small section as a sample test area. Just brushed the glaze on, then waited a couple of minutes. Glaze usually gives you a good 10 or so minutes to wipe off and work with.
After a couple of minutes, wipe off the glaze (with a soft dry cloth, I like microfiber... don't use your good dish towels, the glaze will stain, I keep some craft towels around that I rinse, wash and re-use). Keep wiping until you achieve a look that you like. Once you get too much glaze on a section of your towel, you may need to turn or fold the towel to another clean section on it (I hope that made sense). Your towel will wipe off glaze more easily if the area on the towel you are wiping with if fairly clean. If doing a huge project, you may want to have more than one wipe towel on hand. It literally took less than 20 seconds to get to this look.
Next I generously applied glaze down the side of the frame to a larger area now that I had a feel for how easy it was. It is however always a good idea to work in smaller sections rather than doing an entire piece all at once.
After this, I did the same brush on, wait a few minutes, wipe off... section by section. I just love the way it started looking!
I got brave on this bottom corner and did a larger section. Then I got a phone call which required me to leave my project and go into another room to handle something. It kept me away from my project for 25 or 30 minutes. I was a bit worried that the glaze might not wipe off evenly since I had waited so long. I was right, it didn't want to wipe off as easily, but I just wet a towel, wrung it out, then wiped off the glaze as before. The moisture on the towel softened up the glaze allowing me to wipe it easily... (Thank you God!)
Note: If I were doing a furniture piece with a glaze. I would seal it with a polyeurethane (clear finish) over it to protect it (as glaze can scrape off or scratch). Being that my frame will be hanging on a wall, I don't feel the need to clear coat it.
Here it is... My finished Frame after applying the antique glaze. I absolutely love how it turned out!
Tomorrow I will be working on what goes insidethis frame. More pictures will be posted when I am finished.
How to Spraypaint and Glaze Furniture !!!
We’ve been living in our house for almost a year now and I’ve done some pretty crafty projects, like my kitchen art and living room shutters (here and here), but nothing super crazy- nothing where I had no idea what I was doing- UNTIL NOW!
We shifted some living room furniture around to accommodate the fact that we actually have furniture now and in doing so I needed an accent piece for our entryway. I immediately knew that whatever we got I wanted it to be a DIY project, so I went looking around at the Salvation Army but I didn’t find anything. Then we went to the Restore (a store that sells Habitat for Humanity project remnants) and we struck gold:
Ignoring the super dark color (ahem and the blur), the height and width were perfect and I really liked the extra little molding detail on the top.
Before doing anything I thoroughly read the info and watched these videos on how to spray paint furniture and how to glaze furniture.
Here’s the supply list:
- Spray paint primer and silver spray paint
- Furniture glaze and tint color (1 pint of each is enough for about 900 projects)
- Foam brush, rag, and mixing container
Home Depot did not, and does not, sell furniture glaze- wtf – but a chain paint store will AND Sherwin Williams was awesome. They gave me 10% off for being a first time customer and another 20% off because there was a sale going on (even though I didn’t have the coupon).
Every blog I read swears by Kilz spray primer so I made sure to get that. I went with Rust-oleum spray paint because they had metallic silver (and have since decided they are my go-to, the spray nozzle works great and doesn’t clog). The glaze and paint were shockingly more expensive then I thought, but I’ve already used them on about a dozen projects so it was a solid investment.
I did notsand down the piece before painting it because with glazing you want to have all the nooks and knicks you can get. I did however have to drill a new hole for bottom draw hardware because I couldn’t find anything that matched up with the drill holes that already existed:
I had the wood filler on hand from another project, and it didn’t matter what color it was because it was going to be painted anyway. Basically you just squeeze it in the holes you need filled, let it dry, then sand it smooth and drill your new hole wherever you need it.
AND THEN THE FUN BEGAN! I spread out a hugeeee tarp in my yard because over spray will happen, and I primed the whole thing:
SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE that can of primer because if not it’ll leave a very gritty texture on your furniture. Then spray light thin coats from left to right until it’s done, starting and ending off the furniture. The whole thing was primed AND dried in under 10 minutes. I love you, spray primer.
It took me a little over a one can of primer for the whole thing, but that is absolutely because I used too much. It should have taken less then one can. I know this because by the time I got to the second coat I had calmed down with the laying-it-on thick and had much better, smoother results:
Ba-zam! Look at that shine! NOTE: Clearly metallic furniture isn’t for everyone. You can use any color one the furniture and any color for the glaze (black and brown are most common). So if you wanted an antique looking dresser, you could paint it a nice cream and glaze it with brown.
Again, slow, thin even coats from left to right. And again, under 10 minutes to dry! However, I suggest leaving it for an hour just to let it cure up a little before you get to the fun part: THE WONDERFUL GLAZE. The glaze itself is white (kind of like Elmer’s glue in color and consistency) and then I got the blackest black paint I could. Use three parts glaze to one part paint: for this piece I used one cup of glaze and 1/3 cup of paint and it was plenty for me to go over it twice.
I don’t have pictures of the glazing step because I was horrified to stop and take a picture and risk it drying, but basically you paint it on there thick with a foam brush taking care to work it into the nooks and edges then you wipe it off with a wrung out damp rag and wipe again with a dry rag. Pay particular attention to leave some around edges, grooves, and dents. Remember you can always do more layers if you want to be conservative the first time around (I did).
After the glazing was done it was time for new hardware:
I bought the hardware at Home Depot. Because this was such an old piece of furniture the wood was really thick and I had to use the screws from the previous knobs because the new ones were too short- always save your old hardware, people! Also, note how I let the glaze settle in edges and cracks.
And now, VOILA!
I love this thing. The pictures don’t do it justice- it really looks distressed and beat up (in a good way!) and I’m super proud of it. My spray paint and glazing days aren’t over.
Before it looked like this in its’ little home:
Totally doesn’t match, but works shape-wise. And oh, what a sad looking living room.
Now it looks like this:
- I would only spray prime projects if I was in a hurry or if it was a bigger piece, like this one or larger, because spray primer add$ up fast.
- I will absolutely, on the other hand, continue to do the top coat in spray paint because it gives you a much more even, professional look.
- Glazing is so super easy! Don’t be afraid of it!
So what do you think? Thoughts or suggestions? Have you ever glazed furniture before?!
Like this post? Then you may like:
The Chalked Decorative Glaze must be applied over a clean, fully cured surface that has been painted with Rust-Oleum Chalked Paint. The Chalked Paint is fully cured in 3-4 days.
Click to see full answer
In this regard, how do you apply glaze over paint?
- Glazing works best on semi-gloss or low-luster acrylic or latex paint surfaces.
- Apply the glaze with a brush, roller or rag.
- Once you have the glaze rolled or brushed on, you have roughly 20 minutes to work that area.
Furthermore, what does decorative glaze do? Rust-Oleum Transformations Decorative Glaze allows you to add a custom antique finish to any painted surface. Use with any of your decorative projects made of wood, metal, laminate and melamine. Superior stain and scratch resistance after application of polyurethane top coat.
In respect to this, how do you use antique glaze?
Add a small amount of antiquing glaze to a smooth, clean rag. Begin applying the glaze to the front or side of one cabinet in small, circular motions until you've covered the entire section. Tip: A small amount of glaze will go a very long way. It's better to start with too little glaze rather than too much.
Do you seal chalk paint before applying glaze?
One drawback to a glaze is that it will not work to seal a painted finish on its own. So if you are using a chalk type paint that needs to be sealed, you will still have to put another topcoat on top of your glaze to seal the finish.
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Glaze rustoleum antiquing
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